Give yourself plenty of time to see the uneasiest street in America.
You can take pictures next to cars with trash bags for windows or near pit bulls guarding women twisting braids in their front yards. You can catch black vendors outside the Apollo Theatre hissing "devil" at tourists or spend an afternoon with a man named Dawg clutching a fistful of crack.
In Portland and Harlem and points between, go find a street named Martin Luther King.
I know you've been told to avoid it. Chris Rock even has a joke that essentially goes:
"If a friend calls you and says 'I'm lost. I'm on Martin Luther King Boulevard' and they want to know what to do, the best response is, 'Run!' "
Well, I've toured them, and I've had to run only a couple of times.